Filed in Cruise Ship Reviews, River Cruises — October 12, 2024
We recently indulged in a ‘Taste of Bordeaux’ Wine Cruise on AmaWaterways’ 144-guest AmaDolce. For seven days, our captain navigated two tidal rivers and an estuary through one of the most famous wine regions in the world. We shared our cruise with only 76 other guests, and I fell in love with this area and its local delicacies, including the famous Bordeaux wines and fresh oysters.
Flowing from the central Spanish Pyrenees to the Gironde estuary, which runs from Bordeaux to the sea, the Garonne is the key river of southwest France, with tributaries such as the well-loved Dordogne. Along the rivers are irresistible towns and villages: Blaye, with its 17th-century citadel, built to protect the estuary from the threat of the English and Dutch fleets; the medieval village of Bourg, boasting Romanesque buildings; Cadillac, home to the castle of Roquetaillade, which has been lived in by the same family for over 700 years; thriving Pauillac, with the adjacent ancient village of Bages, perhaps the most famous appellation in the Médoc; and the elegant fortified harbor town of Libourne.
Magical names to savor from the world of viniculture include Château Latour, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Lafite Rothschild, Haut Brion, Margaux and more. As a result, any visitor to the region will enjoy visiting a variety of châteaux and “vat houses” to learn more about wine production, and more importantly, to taste the wines, with a memorable collection of appellations such as Médoc, Entre-deux Mers, Premières Côtes, Côtes de Bourg and Sauternes. The region has a huge variation in soil type and climate, so the wine produced all depends on these factors, or the terroir as it is known. Cabernet Sauvignon is the predominant grape, usually blended with Merlot, Cabernet Franc or Malbec before bottling for a more consistent taste.
Most guests participate in daily shore excursions, which included guided walking tours, bike rides, visits to wineries, castles, museums, and local markets. After full days and fuller stomachs, guests tend to retire soon after dinner, while some linger well into the evening over conversation and cocktails. It’s a comfortable home base from which to explore France.
Chef-led cooking classes, such as macaroon making and crepe making, were offered during scenic sailing. Guests enjoyed sampling the results and appreciated the recipes shared to make at home.
Nightly evening performances are offered in the main lounge. Local entertainers vary based on the itinerary. The resident pianist plays popular selections before and after dinner too.
Amenities onboard include a small fitness center, a spa and salon where you can book a massage or hair service, a gift shop stocked with souvenirs, and a small, heated whirlpool and walking track, and chess board on the upper deck.
Get more details about the ship from AmaWaterways.
From the moment you arrive at the Bordeaux airport to the day you disembark, you will be immersed in indulgences of this legendary wine country.
Our cruise had a wine host…from Colorado! She brought about 50 people with her, mostly from Colorado and Wyoming, so our onboard wine tastings were mostly Colorado wines compared to a similar style wine from Bordeaux. 20,000 cases per year is considered a large winery in Colorado, while the Bordeaux region produces an astonishing 44 million cases of wine every year! Wine has been produced in this region for over 2,000 years. Let’s just say that in my opinion, practice makes perfect.
Obviously, a good wine calls for excellent food, and visitors will enjoy gourmet meals onboard the AmaDolce as well as wine and market tastings during shore excursions. As our cruise director warned, “expect to eat every two hours during your cruise”. A member of La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, a prestigious international gastronomic society originally founded by Louix IX, the focus on food has been paramount. The main restaurant served locally inspired cuisine paired with some of the finest wines produced in the region. Reserve a spot at The Chef’s Table where you can watch the ship’s skilled culinary team prepare a seven-course dinner complete with local wine pairings. A Bistro breakfast, light lunch, and High Tea are served daily in the Lounge. Coffees, teas, and cookies are always available. Wines, beer, and soft drinks are included with lunch and dinner, as well as a free happy hour at cocktail time.
Our ship was docked at Quai des Chartrons in the heart of Bordeaux, on a curve of the tidal river Garonne, a quick taxi ride from the Bordeaux airport. Our itinerary took us via the Gironde estuary to Blaye and Bourg, along the Dordogne river to Libourne, and then back up stream to Pauillac and Cadillac, before returning to Bordeaux.
Excursions included visits to local châteaux and vineyards, guided tours of a Citadel, cathedrals and forts, vineyard hikes and guided bike rides, with plenty of wines to taste. Free time was plentiful with time to shop, dine at one of many Michelin-starred restaurants onshore, explore independently by bike or foot, or enjoy the fitness and spa facilities onboard.
From Libourne, I enjoyed a panoramic 8-mile bike ride through stunning scenery to the picturesque town of St Emilion, with quaint shops, cobbled streets and an interesting Cathedral. Then we rode to Château Moulin de Clotte which dates back from 1890. Vines traces in this region dates back to the Antiquity, but production of this vineyard occurred in the middle ages under the British occupancy of the Aquitain region. Wines from Castillon were shipped by boat to Northern Europe. The AOC appeared only in 1935.Many vineyards are now owned by insurance companies or have received investment from actors such as Gerard Depardieu, as winemaking is such an expensive business. A handmade oak barrel can cost as much as €1,000! Most wineries are happy to ship your purchases home, or you can buy a favorite bottle for to enjoy onboard.
The next day in Blaye we took a guided tour of the 17th-Century Citadel. Since it was Sunday, all the shops were closed but the scenery was beautiful.
When docked in Bourg, a small pretty town on the right bank of the Dordogne, we joined other passengers on a guided walk through the village on our way to AmaWaterways’ own exclusive wine festival, held at Maison des Vins des Cotes de Bourg. Local wine producers pour multiple wines for tasting accompanied by abundant plates of cheeses and charcuterie. A lively local band, aptly named “So French” performs classic French love songs with accordion music. Everyone, including the ship’s captain, join the fun on the dance floor.
On our final day docked back in Bordeaux, we enjoyed strolling along the elegant waterfront. Make sure to tour La Cite du Vin, the award-winning wine museum, for an informative self-guided walk through 20 themed areas which immerse your senses, with a tasting session on the 8th floor included in the ticket price. The glass balcony has a 360-degree view of the town. The nearby Les Halles de Bacalan, an indoor food market, tempts with a wide variety of local specialties including crepes, truffles, and oysters.
While in Bordeaux, enjoy a unique cultural experience at Bassins Des Lumieres, the largest digital art center in the world constructed in a former submarine base. The incredible immersive exhibit that we experienced featured digital exhibitions of Vermeer, Van Gogh, Mondrian, and other Dutch Masters. Plan your trip soon as the exhibit is scheduled to end in January 2025.
The AmaDolce is one of the oldest ships in their fleet but has been lovingly maintained and immaculately kept. Captain Jean-Francois Robin, our Hotel Manager Miguel, Cruise Manager Nicki, and the friendly crew made the trip extremely enjoyable, and this is a fantastic region to explore for wine connoisseurs. All in all, the combination of a great climate, fine wines and rich history make this a fascinating region to visit, and the ideal way to explore is on a river cruise which brings you to a new town each day.
Get more information about AmaWaterways Wine Cruises.
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